Friday, November 25, 2011

Amazing Oud (Khaleej times article)

The typically Middle Eastern essential oil of oud has a complex and checkered history; in the present, it’s become a vital component of the perfume industry

Over a decade and a half ago, 
I strolled into one of the traditional perfume/attar shops behind the Taj Mahal Hotel in Bombay’s Colaba. These shops probably started out as purveyors of traditional attars but these days they cater mainly to the Arab market.
told the shop owner that I wanted to smell some oud. He looked pityingly at me. “You won’t like it,” he said flatly. “It is a smell that only Arabs like. You will think that it smells dirty. Plus, it’s very strong.”

When I persisted, 
he finally produced a 
small vial of essential oil 
of oud. It turned out that he was right. It did smell dirty: it was like rotting wood.

But he was also wrong.

I loved it.

The thing about great fragrance notes is that they have to be used in moderation and paired with the right accompaniments. A tiny drop of oud with other woody smells — say, vetiver and sandalwood — would smell delicious.
suggested as much to the owner of the perfume shop. He continued to look dubious. “I don’t know,” he said finally. “I can’t see anyone except for Arabs going for the smell.”

A few years later, in 2002, Yves Saint Laurent launched a men’s fragrance called M7. Though the fragrance was described as woody, there was an unmistakable whiff of oud about it. I read up on M7. It turned out that the note had been selected by Tom Ford, who had just taken over as designer at the House of Saint Laurent. Ford wanted a fragrance that smelt slightly dirty and asked the perfumers to include oud in the formula.

I liked M7 but it turned out that almost nobody in the West shared my view. The fragrance was declared a commercial flop and panned by French perfumers who believed that Ford had taken the Saint Laurent style too far from its French origins.
So, once again, the Colaba perfume shop owner had been right and wrong. He was wrong about oud being an exclusively Arab smell — after all, Tom Ford loved it and spent millions promoting an oud fragrance. But he was right about oud’s lack of wider acceptability, judging by M7’s commercial failure.

In the long run, though, he was more wrong than right. It took another five years but other oud fragrances started appearing. At first, these fragrances were restricted to niche perfume houses but then Christian Dior, Guerlain, Giorgio Armani and the rest entered the oud race. When mass market fragrances such as Farenheit were re-formulated (as Farenheit Absolut), oud notes were added. And now, even Jo Malone, who has a squeaky-clean image, has produced an oud fragrance called Oud Bergamot.

The perfume industry regards oud as one of the trendiest notes in the market today. It believes that the sort of man who is allergic to the detergent smells of so-called fresh fragrances, wants the alternatives to be as dirty as possible. And oud fits the bill perfectly.

People who live in Dubai or other parts of the Middle East may be surprised by the sudden trendiness of oud. After all, oud has long been part of the Arab tradition of perfumery. Not only do most Middle Eastern fragrances contain oud notes but any perfume shop in Dubai will offer you some low-priced or mid-range oud derivative fragrance.
All this leads people to treat oud as an Arab ingredient. The perfume shop owner in Colaba, for instance, acted as though oud had nothing to do with India. But, in this case, he was completely wrong.

Oud is an Indian fragrance note and is even mentioned in the Vedas.

The origins of the oud oil are complex. When a tree belonging to the aquilaria family is attacked by a certain kind of fungus, it produces a dark resin to defend itself. That part of the tree where the resin has been produced changes colour and looks significantly different from the rest of the bark. To extract essential oil of oud, you need to cut off the affected part of the tree and look for the resin in the wood.

The Sanskrit word for oud is agar (probably related to the term agarbatti) and most Indian languages still use that name for oud. But, during medieval times, the Nawabs of Oud (Awadh) — in what is Uttar Pradesh today — began using agar-based attars. These fragrances were transported to the Middle East and became part of the Arab tradition of perfumery.

Even today, the aquilaria tree is found in south Asia and in south-east Asia rather than the Middle East. When perfumers look for sources of oud, they go to Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, where the tree is still grown. But, like the sandalwood tree, the agar-wood tree is also facing extinction because of indiscriminate felling and there are restrictions on how the oud can be extracted. So, a flourishing black market has grown in which smugglers secretly bring the oil to Bangkok or Bombay from where it is purchased by perfumers.

As you might expect, oud is fabulously expensive. According to some estimates, 150 pounds of agar-wood yield five teaspoons of essential oil of oud. A kilo of oud costs upwards of US$ 70,000.

If oud is so rare and so expensive, why has it suddenly become such a popular ingredient in perfumery? How can Jo Malone and Yves Saint Laurent use it in mass market fragrances? And how does every perfume counter in Dubai offer up a mid-priced oud fragrance?

Which leads us to the dirty secret of today’s oud fragrances.

They’re fakes.

Well, not fakes exactly. It’s just that they don’t have any real oud in them. Tom Ford decided to put an oud note in M7 after big perfume companies developed a synthetic oud accord. Even today, a molecule called oud synthetic 0760E, made by fragrance giant Firmenich, accounts for most of the oud notes in mass market perfumes.

Another fragrance giant, Givaudan, also makes a synthetic oud molecule which is increasingly used by perfumers. Other synthetic ouds, which do not smell as good, are easily available and explain the disappointing nature of most of the mid-priced oud fragrances sold in Dubai.

There is nothing actually wrong with using synthetic notes in perfumery. And even niche perfume houses like Le Labo concede that their expensive oud fragrances are made with synthetic molecules (increasingly true of sandalwood as well, rare is the fragrance that uses real sandalwood). But people who’ve smelt the real thing insist that the synthetic molecules do not approximate the complexity of real oud.

If you are going to buy an oud fragrance, then expect to spend money on it. Tom Ford does a whole range and the Jo Malone variation is easily available. My own favourites are Al Oudh by L’Artisan and Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne. But with a new oud fragrance being launched every month, perhaps something better will turn up.

Either way, one thing is clear. The guy in the perfume shop in Colaba got it very wrong — in the long run, at least.

(Vir Sanghvi is a celebrated Indian journalist, television personality, author and lifestyle writer. To follow Vir’s other writings, visit 
www.virsanghvi.com.)

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

I want one like this to make my own essential oils




Alkindus Distiller

The Father of the Perfume Industry


Ibn Yusuf Al Kindi (Alkindus)
Another major figure in Islam's Golden Age involving chemistry was Ibn Yusuf Al Kindi, who lived in the ninth century and is often Latinized as Alkindus. He was a promoter of Chemistry yet unlike many scholars of the early Golden Islamic Age, he was an opponent of alchemy. He was considered revolutionary in his time for proving that regular base metals could not produce precious metals like gold and silver.

He wrote volumes against the concept of medieval alchemy called: Warning against the Deceptions of the Alchemistsand Refutation of the Claim of Those Who Claim the Artificial Fabrication of Gold and Silver. Alkindus's work was more applied then Geber and Rhazes, though still using their findings to his benefit. Geber had concluded that boiling wine produces a flammable vapor, that is, ethanol alcohol. Using this information, Alkindus wrote out a procedure to extract pure distilled alcohol from distilling wine. Alkindus worked mainly in the area of perfumes and scents.

He would work to combine plants with other natural substances to produce scents. He had his own laboratory where his assistance would write down the instructions to produce a particular scent. Alkindus also wrote books on his works, and one was Kitab Kimiya' al-'Itr, or Book of Chemistry of Perfumes.For his works with fragrances, he is called the Father of the Perfume industry. Alkindus, being an advocator of applied sciences, used his knowledge to create perfumes but found
other uses for herbs. He figured out substitutions for expensive ingredients in medicines and produced new medications too. However, even though Alkindus contributed a grand amount to chemistry, he is remembered more for his preservation of works of other intellectuals of the time. He is often called the 'Arab Philosopher' for being an affluent polymath.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Irresistible

C'est Irresistible, this new fragrance is very feminin and sensual, that is why it was called Irresistible, the smell is irresistible.It is an oriental fruity floral fragrance Based on my previous perfume
3 times a lady
but with many variation this perfume has a base of sandalwood, white musk,amber,saffran and middle notes of organic raspberry,carnation, papaya that brings in the fruitiness without making it smell like a fruit cocktail on the skin, and then the top notes are
bergamot,apple,geranium,white rose that give it this floral smell. it is so irresistable.
Pictures coming soon.

Arabian Princess to be crowned Queen

In the 80's Billy ocean released a song called carribean queen which was a hit, he went on to do African queen, and Eurpopean queen.One thing he missed out was Arabian Queen.he left that one for me.

Let me introduce to you Arabian princess maturing to be the Arabian queen of my house of perfume.Arabian princess to be crowned queen is an oriental floral perfume made up of the best that represent middle eastern scents.She is so elegantly composed of a base of Sandalwood, musk, oud, henna and mimosa
then in the middle Kewra zafran and rose, the finally her top notes are jasmin,full (jasmine sambac)and mashmoom.

Most are these sents are favourites of the arabian princesses who wear them, all put together to make up these queen.Well known perfumere Gianfranco Feere said
A fragrance always combines femininity and sensuality.
That is exactly what came to mind when making Arabian Princess.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Jealousy

I love this, Jealousy and flirtation
A study in body language: Haynes King's Jealousy and Flirtation

The caption is
Jealousy and Flirtation
depicts a woman jealous of the attention given to another woman by a man.
I probably just found a name for a new perfume

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Empty perfume bottles

These are some of the empty bottles I use with my perfumes, I am working on having a few signature bottles, I may need to travel abroad and go and see for myself first, then order online..
But first here are a few I bought online and in shops here in Qatar
The above is one set here is another.
There are these also

Just some of my collection of essential oils.

This is just some of my collection of essential oils, As a perfumer i don't have an organ yet to display all my hundreds of bottles of oils but that will come.
As I mentioned these are just a few of my oils I have drawers full of them.Once I am able to get myself an organ I will post the pics.Due to a lack of space I don't have an organ yet.
For those who do not know what a perfumer's organ looks like her is one from the internet, the fisrt one is an empty one
This one is full in france, perfume town itself Grasse.

I only wish I could reach this level, But for now I am content with my hundreds or so different essential oilsin the drawers until i can sort out the space problem. here is another beautiful organ belonging to a perfumer, I saw this on the net it is lovely

Friday, September 23, 2011

Arabesque or Arabica

This perfume was originally called Arabesque, but I am thinking of calling it Arabica.The story behind this is that I was creating perfume recently and wanted to create something red in colour and also very Arabic, something that would be oriental, spicy and floral all at once so I put together
Arabesque

A spicy oriental perfume with a touch of saffron and 4 spices,oud and jasmine,mimosa,jasmine sambac.
It is popular among my Arabian testers.so Arabesque made her mark.

You're once , twice, three times a lady

3 times a lady,
It smells gorgeous, fruity oriental with 3 roses, sandalwood, mango, pomegranate,strawberry, musk, amber.
My daughter just loves this perfume and we discussed the name earlier,I suggested 3 times a lady but me being an 80's man could not resist such a name for such a lovely perfume, she likes the name.

The promised rose bouquet

(Sorry pics are a bit blurry)
One of my favourite perfumes that I recentltly created is one I called the promised rose bouquet.By the name I am sure you can see it is full of roses and other flowers.Being a perfumer you need to be creative and of course it all comes form inspiration.I was at home one day and the thought of roses came to my mind and I thought, why not make a perfume with rose as the main note,a floral bouquet full of flowers.So I set out creating the promised rose bouquet.
The initial notes are Tuberose,rose de mai,tea rose, jasmin Sambac, jasmin, musk sandalwood and oud and many others. After my recent holiday in June to Mauritius, I travelled via Mumbai and I made the most of the stopover in mumbai to stock up on some of the attars that I needed so I was able to stock up on rose.They have a type of rose called Ghulab ( white rose), and I got some more tea rose from there too. So now I can create variations of my promised rose bouquet. I have made it into oil and alcohol based
It smells absolutely brilliant

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Bella Donna

Pretty woman walking down the the street those who know me know that I am an 80's man and while I was creating this perfume I was thinking of a pretty woman but did not want to make it obvious and also the title of a well known film.I wanted to be different and call it
Bella Donna
the same meaning in italian.
This wonderful smelling perfume is composed of Rose, organic chocolate,roasted coffee,Mimosa, cedarwood, musk and more.
isn't she lovely , isn't she beautiful.

Sweet dreams are made of these

sweet dreams,my love for mimosa went a little further when I decided to create this lovely perfume, full of great essential oils.Unfortunately I ran out as soon as i made it cos I made very little and my friend was lucky to get the lot.I have the formula and will be repeating again but no pic i will update with Pictures once i make a new batch. Sweet dreams are made of these:
sandalwood,frankincense,benzoin,mimosa,ginger,amber ,palmarosa and more

It just smells lovely.I got the feedback from my friends who test my perfumes,I give them as gifts they in return give me feedback.

Desir

Desir was once called Desir de plaire (desire to please) but in the end I kept Desir as the name.I had been experimenting with a formula that I found containing mimosa, after having created the scent, I resmelt the essential oils i was using and I found mimosa smelt so nice I decided apart from the experiment I was doing,(which turned out very nice) I fell in love with mimosa and decided to create not one but two differnt other perfumes with mimosa. Desir contains Mimosa,oud,jasmine,white musk and vanilla.
I would say it is a unisex perfume since I feel it smell real good aswell and often dab some on.

My perfumes the beginning

My perfumes (from the beginning The early scents)
I have created quite a few perfumes I will be displaying and talking about them in this blog. because of shortness of time due to my surgey anmd recover i started out by posting some nice stuff I like from other blogs and sites i follow and like.
Many perfumes I created first about 2 years back I found they did not smell nice, well not like some thing one would wear as a perfume.Then I decided one day to b a bit more creative,these same fragrances, some I thought smelt like medicine,
(test 5 This was the name it was given as it was the 5 perfume I done: with franckincense, cedarwood, peppermint, coriander and more)I started working on them adding other oils, smelling as I went along, (I smell a lot and so do you)as these turn out to be wonders I got inspired to create more wonders, making the nose, the heart and my friends very happy
(this is perfume test 2 another with no name but smells very nice, with sandalwood,gardenia, hyacinth, lily , jasmin, a dash of peppermint and more
Then we have perfume 7 and 9 both alcohol based,
Perfume 7 has, safron, oud, vanilla ,sandalwood and musk and more.They had been left aside for a long time and I only repulled them out recently and found how nice they smelt.
Soir de magie
One of my first perfumes once called perfume 4 then after liking it and a friend liking it she said give it a name to do with night so I thought soir de magie It contains sandalwood, lemon,tobacco flower, palmarosa, caraway, vetiver, jasmine sambac and more

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Chypre, indolic flowers, fruit and spices

Chypre, indolic flowers, fruit and spices
It's wonderful that I have more time for the creation of my perfumes again. The whole weekend I was busy with experimenting. I took a closer look at my new friends, some materials I didn't study yet. I mixed unexpectedly combinations of materials, some of these mixes turned out stinky combinations, and some of them were surprisingly nice. I smelled my Velvet Blossom again, and I love the result very much. A very satisfying feeling to have accomplish exactly what I had in mind for this fragrance. A tender, fresh, but oh so velvety floral fragrance, based on Magnolia and Lilly of the Valley. I also worked on my fruity/chypre again. A perfume based on a Chypre accord made of oakmoss, labdanum, pathouli, vetiver, cedar and a little bit of castoreum. I combined this accord with fruity notes of bergamot, lemon and lychee.

I added a herbal green note of basil, a material I love very much, it gives a fresh green and a bit minty note to the fragrance. I also used watercress which gives a wonderful green leafy and very fresh note. The perfume so far smelled of course like Chypre, but also fruity green and floral. One of the flowers I think I always will use in my fragrances is jasmine, so also in this fragrance....


Read more

Bourbonia


One of the legendary and most magnificently fragranced rose oils is the Rose Edouard , also known as Rose Bourbon. It’s distinctive delicate spicy-carnation quality makes it the perfect rose upon which to base a fine oriental perfume.

Here is the little known story of how this distinctive rose came into being


Artistic motifs and ancient documents dating back to 3000 BC tell us that the rose first emerged in Central Asia. In the myth of Aphrodite’s birth, shown above, a rose tree sprouted from the foam that ran from her body, which she watered with nectar.
..........
Forward in time to 11th century France, when a French Noble, Adhemar de Monteil, became Lord of the House of Bourbon and acquired the Castle of Bourbon, Bourbon-l'Archambault.
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The difference between Aromatherapy and Natural Perfume

The difference between Aromatherapy and Natural Perfume
There's been a debate withon the natural perfume community lately, as to what the difference is between Natural or Botanical Perfumery and Aromatherapy.

Conventional Perfumery has been poo pooing Aromatherapy ever since it started to become popular in the 1980's. But then Conventional Perfumery poo poos Natural Perfumery too, so I don't really see how their opinion matters either which way here.

Aromatherapy is the art of useing essential oils to create a certain therapeutic effect, both emotionally and physically. As I wrote in my previous blogpost, essential oils have been used for centuries, both in perfumery and for medicinal purposes.
All scents have an effect on our emotions and hence our bodies, be they natural or artificial.
Our sense of smell is directly linked to the emotional part of our brain, which in turn has a direct biochemical effect on our body, raising or dropping levels of hormones and other biochemicals depending on the scent.

Musky scents arouse us, sweet and foody scents make us salivate and increase stomach aci, citrus scents and mints make us feel awake and refreshed, regardless of their origin!

So from that point of view, ALL perfumes are a form of Aromatic- Therapy.
Read more

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Cinnamon(also known as canelle)

Cinnamon
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For other uses, see Cinnamon (disambiguation).



Cinnamon sticks or quills and ground cinnamon
Cinnamon ( /ˈsɪnəmən/ sin-ə-mən) is a spice obtained from the inner bark of several trees from the genus Cinnamomum that is used in both sweet and savoury foods. Cinnamon trees are native to South East Asia, and its origin was mysterious in Europe until the sixteenth century.
Contents [hide]
1 Nomenclature and taxonomy
2 History
3 Cultivation
4 Species
5 Flavor, aroma and taste
6 Uses
7 Medicinal value
7.1 Research
8 Notes
9 References
10 External links
[edit]Nomenclature and taxonomy

The name cinnamon comes from Hebrew and Phoenician through the Greek kinnámōmon.
In India, where it is cultivated in the hill ranges of Kerala, it is called "karuvapatta". In Indonesia, where it is cultivated in Java and Sumatra, it is called kayu manis ("sweet wood") and sometimes cassia vera, the "real" cassia.[1] In Sri Lanka, in the original Sinhala, cinnamon is known as kurundu (කුරුඳු),[2] recorded in English in the 17th century as Korunda.[3] In Arabic, it is called qerfa (قرفة). In Swahili it is called "mdalasini". In several European languages, the word for cinnamon comes from the Latin word cannella, a diminutive of canna, "cane". In Hindi, it is called dal-chini.
[edit]History



Cinnamon (canella) output in 2005


Cinnamomum verum, from Koehler's Medicinal-Plants (1887)
Cinnamon has been known from remote antiquity. It was imported to Egypt as early as 2000 BCE, but those who report that it had come from China confuse it with cassia.[4]
The Hebrew Bible makes specific mention of the spice many times: first when Moses is commanded to use both sweet cinnamon (Hebrew: קִנָּמוֹן, qinnāmôn) and cassia in the holy anointing oil;[5] in Proverbs where the lover's bed is perfumed with myrrh, aloes, and cinnamon;[6] and in Song of Solomon, a song describing the beauty of his beloved, cinnamon scents her garments like the smell of Lebanon.[7] Cinnamon was a component of the Ketoret which is used when referring to the consecrated incense described in the Hebrew Bible and Talmud. It was offered on the specialized incense altar in the time when the Tabernacle was located in the First and Second Jerusalem Temples. The ketoret was an important component of the Temple service in Jerusalem.
It was so highly prized among ancient nations that it was regarded as a gift fit for monarchs and even for a god: a fine inscription records the gift of cinnamon and cassia to the temple of Apollo at Miletus.[8] Though its source was kept mysterious in the Mediterranean world for centuries by the middlemen who handled the spice trade, to protect their monopoly as suppliers, cinnamon is native to Sri Lanka.[9] It is also alluded to by Herodotus and other classical writers. It was too expensive to be commonly used on funeral pyres in Rome, but the Emperor Nero is said to have burned a year's worth of the city's supply at the funeral for his wife Poppaea Sabina in AD 65.[10]
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Natural Perfumery - A Fragrant Evolution for Aromatherapy

Natural Perfumery - A Fragrant Evolution for Aromatherapy
by Anya McCoy
http://AnyasGarden.com

Update: The author of this article, Anya McCoy, has begun teaching an online
course in natural perfumery that is found at http://perfumeclasses.com
Introduction
The term “Natural Perfume” was relatively obscure more than five years ago.
Many people, myself included, say we have been natural perfumers for years. But
really, we were mostly amateurs, happily mixing simple blends, often cribbed from
aromatherapy books, with our own preferences dropped in. Then there was a
change in consciousness, and many decided that they really wanted to learn how
to blend, and they wanted to define themselves as separate from mainstream
perfumery, the stuff of department store choking clouds and allergic reactions. So,
the term Natural Perfumery, like a synchronistic “click” in many scent-lovers
heads, became the way in which we define what we do.
In the 1800’s, before the discovery of synthetics that would change perfumery
forever, natural perfumery did exist; it just wasn’t called that. The perfumers were
just perfumers. The 20th Century saw the growth of Mainstream Perfumery and
the increasing use of synthetic chemicals replacing the natural aromatics. Now, in
the 21st Century, Natural Perfumery is the logical next step along the fragrant path
Natural Perfumery by Anya McCoy 2005 2
for many aromatherapists. It is the road back through history that we are now
finding, and it is wonderful.
Aromatherapists are already used to blending several essential oils to evoke a
mood, or bring about a desired physical change, and so this new trend, the natural
progression of blending perfumes came into being. Aromatherapists, and others,
suffering from chemical overloads, allergies and sensitivity to these synthetics, and
perhaps just a gut reaction to the harsh and fake smells of these synthetics,
moved towards a return to the perfumery of old, Natural Perfumery.
Natural Perfumery existed for centuries before aromatherapy was conceived by
Gattefosse in the early part of the 20th Century, and now many modern
aromatherapists discovering that they want to refine their art and create “real”
perfumes, sometimes, but not always, with a healing goal in mind.
They are delving into the world of sensual pleasure and grand experimentation.
One roadblock: very few of them have training as a perfumer, a requisite for
understanding the complexities of blending the raw materials. One way past that
roadblock? Classes, peer groups, and home study.
Some aromatherapy books contain some basic, rather primitive, perfume blending
tips. Usually using no more than five or six essential oils, these simple perfumes
smelled nice, and performed their aromachology job, but didn’t approach “real”
perfumery. Chrissie Wildwood’s seminal Create Your Own Aromatherapy
Perfumes: Enchanting Blends for Body and Home (Piatkus Press, 1995) is now a
collector’s item, selling for ten times its original price on Internet sites. This is due
perhaps because of the recognition that she was the first aromatherapist to publish
a comprehensive, industry-based book on blending from an aromatherapists’
palette. Still, she limited the choices to essential oils, only. Visit Chrissie’s website:
http://chrissie-wildwood.com/
A few years later, in 2001, Mandy Aftel’s
Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume
(North Point Press) became a bestseller and
bolstered many in their aspirations to become
“real” perfumers, due to the educational and
coaxing nature of the writing. Aftel pushed
the reader through history, dabbling with
exotic aromatics, revealing some secrets of
beginning perfumery studies. There was no
other book that addressed the beginner; no other book carried them along on a
rapturous journey into the world of Natural Perfumery like Essence and Alchemy.
And so the current boom in Natural Perfumery really took root. Visit Mandy’s
website: http://aftelier.com
Many of the aromatherapists who read Essence decided to explore the new
aromatic world she opened up to them.
Read more

Welcome to Eden Botanicals' Aromatherapy

Welcome to Eden Botanicals' Aromatherapy and Therapeutic Grade Essential Oils web page! Here you will find information on aromatherapy essential oils and the therapeutic action of 100% natural, pure and genuine essential oils.
Eden Botanicals stocks a full range of therapeutic grade essential oils to use in creating aromatherapy synergistic combinations of healing oils for the healing of body, mind and spirit. Single essential oils and synergies (combinations or blends of various pure, therapeutic grade essences) have been used for a wide variety of health conditions with good results. However, for complete healing we recommend that essential oils should be used in combination with other modalities (e.g., the complimentary medical approach). This would typically include lifestyle approaches – dietary changes, exercise routines, meditation, yoga, de-stressing, etc. – as well as other medical modalities such as acupuncture, herbal medicine, allopathic, chiropractic, massage, etc.

What are Therapeutic Grade (Aromatherapeutic Grade) Essential Oils?

Many considerations are taken into account throughout the entire process of producing essentials oils that are to be used for therapeutic purposes. For this reason, these aromatherapeutic grade essential oils tend to be harder to source and more expensive than commercial grade essential oils. Eden Botanicals is proud to offer you these highest-quality therapeutic grade essential oils at wholesale prices. True therapeutic grade essential oils are substantially different from commercial grade essential oils. In general, essential oils for aromatherapy are specifically grown for a special (small) sector within the essential oil market (which is within the Flavors and Fragrance industry). They are more expensive to purchase than commercial oils because more care has gone into the production of the plants, the distillation process, and the after-care of the oil, and they are made in batches that are smaller than commercial grade essential oil batches.
Specifically the following holds true for authentic essential oils that have been legitimately produced for the aromatherapy market.

Growing

Aromatherapy (aroma therapy) grade essential oils come from crops grown from seeds or root stocks that are true to species, subspecies, cultivar or variety and chemotype. They may be cultivated on small, independently owned farms or from larger farms and plantations, and they may have, or may not have, been grown using organic methods. The most important part in the growing cycle is that they have been grown and tended with care on soils that are healthy enough to produce quality crops. Other sources for aromatherapeutic grade essential oils are from plants that grow in the wild, where selective harvesting should be performed to ensure that the plants are able to continue to propagate on their own.

Harvesting

The correct timing for the harvest of cultivated or wild harvested plants, even to the time of day (especially for delicate flowers such as Jasmine and Rose), ensures the quality of fresh plant material, optimal yield of oil, and the desired proportions of constituents within the oil. During the harvest, whether by hand or by machinery, it is important that only the desired plant material is collected to the exclusion of other plants or weeds that may be growing along side the desired plants. Optimally, distillation takes place on the premises or the plant material may be transported to another location with care. Some plants or plant parts need to be distilled quickly after harvesting, while other material can sit (or actually needs to dry, etc.) before it is ready to distill. Some plants need to be sorted, cleaned, etc. before being distilled. In any case, the process needs to be monitored by someone who is knowledgeable and performed correctly for that specific plant type.

Distillation

A knowledgeable and experienced distiller is necessary to carefully monitor the process of distillation in order to create the highest quality of essential oils. Typically small batches of plant material in relatively small distillation units are used to create true aroma therapy essential oils. In contrast, commercial essential oils are produced more quickly in larger units and with higher heat.
A crucial factor in the distillation of aromatherapeutic grade essential oils is the use of lower temperatures and pressures, resulting in essential oils that are more representative of the oil’s constituents as they naturally occur in the plant. Higher temperatures and pressures employed in large stills and with large batches of plant material are used for the purpose of saving time and energy, so the integrity of the resulting oils is compromised. Essential oils produced in this way are considered commercial grade and are suitable for mass-produced food and beverage flavorings, soap manufacture, and similar uses.
A knowledgeable and experienced distiller is necessary to carefully monitor the process of distillation in order to create the highest quality of essential oils. Typically small batches of plant material in relatively small distillation units are used to create true aroma therapy essential oils. In contrast, commercial essential oils are produced more quickly in larger units and with higher heat.
A crucial factor in the distillation of aromatherapeutic grade essential oils is the use of lower temperatures and pressures, resulting in essential oils that are more representative of the oil’s constituents as they naturally occur in the plant. Higher temperatures and pressures employed in large stills and with large batches of plant material are used for the purpose of saving time and energy, so the integrity of the resulting oils is compromised. Essential oils produced in this way are considered commercial grade and are suitable for mass-produced food and beverage flavorings, soap manufacture, and similar uses.
The actual distillation process is likely the most demanding job and requires the most experience of any of the procedures necessary to produce high quality essential oils. A good analogy is the wine maker who uses his knowledge of science, technique and equipment, combined with extensive experience, and just as importantly combines this with his/her inner sense or intuition to manipulate many factors in order to produce the best quality end product.

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